What Do I Mean by Tied (Unit) Weave? - a Very Short Version

As I mentioned in the last post, my problem with writing this post has been to explain in words, using correct tied unit weaves jargon, something I've done instinctively since I first wove in this manner in 2010. Then to gauge what you might know, and/or if you want to even know what I do. (Let me know, all three of you reading this blog? :-D) 

 

So, I decided to give you this very short version. I hope I covered every anomaly. If you know tied unit weaves, no problem. If not, I've listed three trustworthy sources I turn to at the bottom of this post. Or you can ask me anything, and I shall endevour to reply as best I can. If additional post/s emerge/s from there, all the better.

 

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My Wagamama* Tied Unit Weave

 

* For warp and weft, I choose colors and numbers randomly, not corresponding to the structure. 

 

* I use 20/2 cotton for the warp and pattern wefts, and 60/2 for the tie-down.

* I have sampled two, three, four or five shafts for tie-down, usually in straight draw or point; (in case of two shafts, 1-p-2-p-2-p-1-p instead of point.) Once I wove a five-shaft-undulating twill tie-down in a workshop, which I liked very much, but darn it, that's the one sample I seem to have lost. (t is for tie-down threads/shafts; p for pattern.)

* I thread in pairs, i.e. tie-down and pattern alternately, t-p-t-p. I sampled t-p-p-t-p-p but from memory I wasn't pleased with the result in that instance.

 

* I use whatever number of shafts left for pattern and thread them randomly.

 

* For tie-down shafts in pattern shots, I follow the standard order for the chosen tie-down scheme. For example, successive pattern shots may be: 

     1&p

     2&p

     2&p

     1&p    

 

* (T is now for tabby/ground shots, and P for pattern shots, [whichever tie-down shaft/s required plus all/some/none of the pattern.]) I often select pattern shafts by looking at the ways the levers were positioned on each loom. One such example would be two shafts clockwise, using 1 and 2 for tie-down:    
     T

     1&3&5
     P

     2&5&7

     T

     2&7&8

     P

     1&8&6 

* Sometimes I insert two pattern wefts, e.g.

     T

     1&5&6

     1&5&6&7

     P

     2&6&7
     2&5&8

     T

     2&7&8
     2&5&8

     P

     1&5&6&8
     1&7

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If you are interested tied unit weaves, here are three good resources:

 

* Strickler's "A Weaver's Book of 8-Shaft Patterns" lists gazillion drafts on eight shafts, divided into an array of weave structures, each chapter starting with a brief description of the structure. Chapter 15 covers Summer & Winter; 18, Other "Tie" Weaves. Oh, the book describes sinking shed, which I did not noticed until a few years I had the book.

* At the comprehensive end, now-defunct Weaver's Magazine put out a compilation of articles in book form, one of which is "The Best of Weaver's - Summer & Winter Plus". Most are project instructions, but about a quarter of the way in is, "An Introduction to Tied Unit Weaves and Their Relatives", by one Jacquie Kelly, accompanied by photos of woven samples and descriptive drafts, (thick yarns are drawn plump.) If you need visuals to understand weaving, this is for you.

The chapter in question is an article taken out of one of their magazines; I wished I could tell which issue, but I haven't been able to find it the book. If you belong to a guild with back numbers of this awesome magazine, you might get lucky, in which case I would love to hear from you so we can share the info.  

* Donna Sullivan's "Summer & Winter" takes a deep dive into the best known of tied weaves, Summer & Winter, including use of colors, treadling variation, etc. It also has photos of the prettiest woven pieces. At the end of the book are 21 pages on "Other Tied Unit Weaves", which is mind-boggling in its scope, with drafts. There is still so much we could do! 

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"Wagamama" is selfish, willful, self-centered, etc., in Japanese. It has nothing to do with noodles. :-D